Crib Making - A Simple Method
This article describes a simple but effective method of making a nativity crib using easily acquired materials. It has been written with absolute beginners in mind and so should not offer any particular difficulties to anybody.

Cribs can differ enormously in what they look like so it is necessary at this point to clearly describe what we want to achieve. This method will produce a grotto and some adjoining landscape which we will make our best to look like rock and as naturally looking as possible. Although the more adventurous persons would want to add other items, a well, a windmill etc. these have been purposely left out so as not to discourage the beginner.

To commence gather the following essentials:

• A corrugated cardboard box of average size
• A piece of thin wood for the base (plywood, chipboard etc.) of oblong dimensions and in the size you want the crib (if unavailable use thickest piece of cardboard you can find)
• Some sheets of brown paper or used sheets of A4 paper or old magazines but not newspapers
• White PVA glue*
• Powder Plaster* (in powder form looks like Plaster of Paris but it is NOT! It is not as quick drying and is locally known as Gibs Inglis. If unavailable either use PolyFilla (as used for filling wall cracks) or else use Plaster of Paris (Gibs Virgni) but with a few drops of lemon juice which will slow down the drying process)
• Matt wood stain*, any shade but preferably walnut
• Paint thinner* or paraffin (to dilute above stain)
• Masking tape
• The actual crib figurines you are going to put in the crib (if unavailable draw rough outlines of figurines on cardboard using estimated sizes and cut out)

* purchased from any ironmongery 

Tools: Scissors, utility knife or paper cutting blade, an approx. half inch thick paint brush

Optional items: sawdust/wood shavings (from some wood worker) and dried moss (from florist/artificial flowers supplier)


Preparing the base
Start with laying the figurines on the chosen base and arrange their positions to liking. This will immediately give indication if correct size of base has been chosen and which areas must remain free to later accommodate the figurines. Also decide the quantity of figurines to use; try to balance out between an almost bare scene and an overcrowded scene! Before removing figurines clearly mark around base of figurines with pencil; this area must remain vacant throughout construction.

The following steps will concentrate on constructing a cardboard skeleton on
which the paper will be later glued. 

Preparing the backing sides
 >>Open the corrugated box from glued/stapled ends till you get one long flat sheet of cardboard. The length of the piece that we require must be equal to the three sides of the base and the height must roughly be three times the height of a standing figurine. Use the width of the base to mark on the cardboard. Also note the irregular outline of the top part of the backing sides; this will help us to create rough looking rocks. Before folding use blade to tear half way through the back side of the cardboard thickness; this will ensure a clean fold. The flaps on the bottom side must be some 5 cm thick. When cut out and ready to assemble put some PVA glue on the flaps, stick to base and hold in place with pieces of masking tape all around till it dries. The tape will permit us to continue with the next step even if the glue is not dry.

 
Preparing the front
Select a piece of cardboard as high as the back side and roughly 1.25 times the width of the base. Mark as shown in figure below and cut out remembering to leave a 5 cm flap at the end of each leg. Assemble this as demonstrated in next figure.

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 Where marked A cross the two flaps to create a strong corner base as shown in Figure A. Where marked B cut 3 cm cuts on both the front and back parts to facilitate assembly holding in place with tape. Figure B shows this method. Put glue under the Points A and hold in place with tape. Note that the front should be bent slightly forward in an irregular arching shape. Remember we are simulating rocks so avoid flatness, box like shapes, sharp corners etc.

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Joining the front with back
>>Cut strips of cardboard as shown in figure long enough to span between the back and front. These will be used to create a beam like structure between the front and back parts and should be approx. 7 cm apart. Vary the length and archness of the connecting strips. You can cut 3 cm cuts on the back side to accommodate the strips and hold in place with tape.

Covering with paper
Prepare pieces of paper around 10 cm by 20 cm and crumple in balls of paper (as if throwing away but do not tear). This removes the stiffness of the paper and will help us achieve a rough surface. Now prepare a mixture of PVA glue and water, 4 parts glue with 1 part water. Open up the paper and cover both sides with glue mixture. To practice this rock making method, apply the paper, still slightly crumpled around the 'column' of one of the arches. Ensure that the edges of the paper are attached to the cardboard but the middle part must not be flattened out. Remember that we want to achieve a rough rock effect. Do not worry if you do not get it right the first time; you can re-cover it till it looks right. When you feel that you have practiced enough on the easy outside part, put the whole structure upside down to facilitate covering the inside part of the grotto. It helps a lot to have the inside grotto covered with paper since we can fix the corners of the pieces of paper to the beam like structures. Only when this is ready should you continue with the outside part. To hide the flat surfaces you can insert a crumpled piece of paper underneath another piece with glue on both sides. This will ensure that even if you press the outside piece to the cardboard to ensure that it sticks it will not end up to flat. Continue with this process till you cover all the cardboard. By now the structure should start looking like a rock grotto. Leave to dry overnight before continuing. 

Covering with plaster
Next we will cover the paper with a plaster mixture which will give strength to the structure, create a rough surface and prepare for painting. Prepare some plaster (gibs) in a container and add a much diluted mixture of PVA glue and water adding the latter rather sparingly to the powder till the final mixture is rather creamy and not too diluted. In case you put too much water add more powder till you get the right mix. Now apply over the paper with a brush covering every part. Do not bother smoothing the surface and apply quite generously. Remember that you can rotate the crib as required to reach areas which are otherwise difficult to reach. When completely covered leave overnight to dry. The second coating needs to be thicker and the surface much rougher. Mix 2 parts powder to 1 part sawdust in the container and add a slightly diluted mixture of PVA glue and water. Ensure that the mixture is quite thick and during application instead of applying in smooth brush strokes apply by dabbing so that the surface is as rough as possible. Any crevices that end up filled with plaster can be reopened by poking with the other end of the brush. Leave to dry overnight before continuing. 

Painting & completing the crib
This step will give the structure its colour.  Put some matt stain in a container and dilute with thinner or paraffin. Try on the back side till you get the desired shade which should not be too dark. (As an indication the mixture should roughly be 1 part stain to 4 parts thinner). Apply the mixture as if you are washing the surface, leaving the crevices to absorb the mixture and become of the darkest shade. Leave to dry overnight before continuing. To apply the moss first dab in undiluted PVA glue and then push in crevices. Lastly put the figurines in place and enjoy your creation.